Gucci's Hard-Edge Glamorous Athleticism.

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Ever since Tom Ford stepped down at Gucci in 2004, creative director Frida Giannini has taken lots of heat for moving Gucci in a new direction. Personally, I love Frida’s young, sexy design sense, themed around cultural phenomenon of decades past; including collections inspired by a bohemian-luxe Anita Pallenberg, an exotic seventies Veruschka, and most recently Tina Chow at Studio 54. For Spring 2010, Frida combined her love for print and youth with Tom’s eroticism to create hard-edged, glamorous athleticism.
By looking forward instead of back, Frida’s collection was very sleek and streamline, featuring skin-tight clothes in mostly black and white. The show opened with a discreetly bondage slashed white dress, followed by high waisted leggings with athletic shoe lacing up the side. Skirts with parachute cutouts followed, and then the Gucci staples started to emerge: the classic leather jacket, this season is Crocodile, and printed dresses, featuring the bold ikat print. Frida then re-invented the LBD, adding backpack inspired shoulder straps, and lots of silver hardware. The final few floor sweeping gowns were refined takes on Frida’s signature column dresses. Check out my favourite looks from the hard, hot show, after the jump!

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Alice in Versaceland!

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For the past few seasons, Balmain has been the go-to house for young party girls in need of clothes as young as sexy as themselves; but for Spring 2010, it appears Versace wants that title back. After several seasons of sophisticated and safe collections, Donatella Versace chose to pay homage to her late great brother, Gianni.  Donatella cherry picked Gianni’s most influential and successful time to pay tribute to: the years of the Supermodels in the early nineties. The nineties glamazon flashback alone might have seemed dated, but Donatella shoots right into 2010 with inspiration from Tim Burton’s new remake of Alice in Wonderland"I loved the idea of that fantasyland," explained Donatella
                Prints from down the rabbit hole including clocks, playing cards and rabbits shape into bold brocades printed onto the shortest of skirts and dresses. Vivid pastels, geometric prints, cut-outs, and chainmail are all featured heavily in the collection, which might come across as tacky, if it weren’t for the quality and construction from the Versace atelier. The shoes and bags were colour blocked, and most heels were longer than the hemlines. The collection was also on-key with the techno scuba trend, with many pieces featured plexiglass shine or cut-outs. Perhaps what kept the collection coherent was the perfect balance between extremes. The mix of softness with edge as seen in stud embellished chiffon, or the mix of a glamorous supermodel with innocent Alice (best portrayed by Abbey Lee, Lily Donaldson, Vlada Roslyakova, and Natasha Poly). After the jump see some of my favourite looks from the collection that brings Versace to a new generation.






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Burberry's Bold Return to London!

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The 25th Anniversary of London Fashion Week brought many British fashion houses back to London to show their Spring 2010 collections. Returning from Milan, Burberry was the crown jewel of London Fashion Week, and attracted major editors, press and buyers whom seldom attended shows in London, being too busy with New York, Milan and Paris. It seemed celebrities didn’t want to miss out either; Gwyneth Paltrow, Victoria Beckham, Emma Watson, Liv Tyler, Mary-Kate Olsen, Agyness Deyn, Dev Patel and Freida Pinto all came to support their favourite timeless British brand. The title of the collection was “Twisted Classics”, a concept creative director Christopher Bailey is very familiar with. In recent years, many have regarded Burberry’s fashion shows as drab bi-annual trench coat reinvention expositions. That notion is clearly over; there wasn’t a melancholic bone in the body of this collection. For the trenches this season, Bailey made the classic staple contemporary and young by cropping the length, tightening the fit and adding military references. The young attitude continued in the dresses and skirts, most didn’t pass mid-thigh, and were sexily draped in silk chiffon. Feminine colours like rose, beige and lilac mixed with conceptual knotted epaulette shoulders rounded out the collection. This collection felt much like the turning of a new leaf, there wasn’t a signature checked scarf in sight. Perhaps Bailey is trying to distance Burberry from its chavy followers, and launch itself out of fashion oblivion. Anna Wintour commented that “This is a great night for London”. It was a great night for Burberry also, most declared this collection Bailey’s best ever. After the jump are my favourite looks from the knockout collection!




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Refined Exotic Eclecticism at Oscar de la Renta Spring 2010

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"It's a dream to see the pinnacle of embroidery and luxurious fabrics from the best mills in the world treated in the most magnificent ways," said designer Zac Posen, after attending Oscar de la Renta’s Spring 2010 show. The friendship between the two designers certainly strengthened both of their collections this season; each being herald super feminine and wearable, by reducing volume and incorporating hot shots of colour. For de la Renta, the exotic colours this season included teal, melon, bronze, cream, hyacinth and peridot. Mixing youthful colours with classic shapes including safari suits, trench coats, full skirts and draped dresses, Oscar’s clothes would look amazing on a woman of any age. We also saw far less embroidery and embellishment in the clothing (possibly caused by the continuing credit crunch), which provided a refined spin on exotic eclecticism. Although his clothing is constantly ultra luxe and sensual, Oscar feels the need to change every season. De la Renta explains that he desires to provide fantasy to a woman who is already incredibly fascinating, so he can never do the same thing, or look back. After the jump you can see some of my favourite looks from the exotic, ladylike collection.












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Origami Folds, ZigZag Zippers, Cut-Outs, and More at Michael Kors Spring 2010!

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Every year, Michael Kors always sends a cast of jetsetters down the runway of his Spring/Summer shows. Some years they are destined for Capri, sometimes St. Tropez, Malibu or St. Barts; but for his Spring 2010 collection, the guys and dolls are strongly keeping both (very fashionable) feet in the city. After his Fall 2009 spectacle of power and strength, Michael made it clear that there was no vacation this season. “Very optimistic, very upbeat, yet very urban.” Michael explains, “These are spring clothes, not summer.” For the women, Kors fused sleek, high powered, architectural shapes with pastel colours including sea foam blue, mint green, pale lavender and teal. Michael notes “I’ve never done pastels before; I always felt they were a bit too saccharine. But they seem right for spring. That’s what it’s all about.” The design of the shift dresses was the highlight of the show, from origami folds, to zigzag zippers, bold cut-outs and asymmetric necklines, these clothes aren’t for your mother. Dresses with sequins, silver lamé, crushed taffeta and draped jersey were begging to be worn out on the town by a young working woman, not the old Park Avenue grandma Michael once dressed. Kors is also giving the younger man new options while dressing, offering breezy yet sleek clothes perfect for any urban capital. Sleeveless jackets and knits with zipped seams sliced away added intricacy to the menswear, and a colour pallet of sky blue and white added an air of relaxation. After the jump, see some of my favourite women’s and men’s looks, plus the full show video! Michael Kors is my favourite show so far this season!


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